Parsons again

Had a fun little surf at parsons again last weekend. Was only 2ft but the weather was 43C so getting in the water was a fantastic idea. Left home about 530 am and got to my bros house where i picked him and a friend up. We got in the water about 730 and it was already pretty busy. Good thing it is a fairly long beach so there were still a few relatively uncrowded options. The swell was peaky too so that meant there were waves pretty much everywhere. My third wave of the day was my favourite. I was paddling back out when a nice 2.5 footer came barrelling towards me. I turned around and managed to squeeze a couple of seconds of shack time before is sucked me up and dropped me down just in front of the incoming section so i scooted out of my barrel just before the closeout. Had a fun free fall as well on one super glassy wave that bottomed out real hard. I was late on it anyway so didn't make it down the face but just ended up getting launched off the lip and landed in front of the closeout. Pretty funny actually.

Almost lost it

Went to parsons again just before the new year started. The forecast was for an inconsistent 1-2ft so i wasn't getting my hopes up for anything great. When we arrived we were greeted with a nice 3 ft swell. Wind wasn't perfectly offshore but it was still pretty clean and there were some empty ones around so we were pretty happy. Unfortunately i surfed so crap for some reason. I got a couple but couldn't snag a good one and wore most of the bigger sets on the head while paddling back out after catching a wave. It was just one of those days. I was so frustrated. To add to my frustration, my gopro froze up on me and then after getting caught by three 4 footers on the head, the base plate for my camera snapped (see above photo)and the camera fell out of its clip. When i came up from getting rolled i looked at my board to see that the camera was gone. My heart in my throat i quickly realised that it was still attached to the safety line that i had attached to my leash. Phew, nearly lost the cam before I'd even had a chance to get any good footage.
Ordered a new base plate today so will get it back in action as soon a possible. Here are a couple of frame grabs from the day.

Stand up about to get shacked



Booger taking off